Free Quilt Project: Plaza Mayor Quilt

I lived in Madrid twice as a student -- 6 months each time. I've returned to visit Spain on four other occasions. My favorite spot in Madrid is the Plaza Mayor -- and of course, the famed Sobrino de Botin and Casa Paco restaurants, as well as the many tapas "cuevas" (caves) that surround the plaza.

Although this quilt design wasn't originally inspired by the Plaza Mayor, after it was completed I knew that its name would be  "Plaza Mayor" because it reminded  me of the concrete and stone design on the ground of the plaza. And, of course, the warm, rich colors I chose or my quilt remind me of Spain. The name was also perfect since I made the quilt for my nephew who served a 2-year LDS mission in Madrid.

The quilt:

(Sorry, this is the best photo I have of the quilt. I didn't anticipate turning this into a pattern before I gave the quilt away.)

Here's  the quilt image from Electric Quilt 6:


The Plaza Mayor (you can kind of see the pattern on the ground):



Finished quilt size: 68" x 81.5" (perfect for a twin-sized bed and will work with twin-sized batting)
Number of blocks: 20 (although it is an easy quilt to make bigger or smaller)
Finished block size: 12" x 12"

Fabric Requirements

  • 16 coordinated fat quarters (18" x 22"), for blocks. Select fabrics in a variety of colors, scales and values -- light, medium light, medium, medium dark, and dark
  • 1-1/4 yard light fabric, for sashing
  • 1-1/2 yard dark fabric, for sashing, inner border and binding
  • 1-1/4 yard medium or medium dark fabric, for cornerstones and outer border
  • 5 yards, backing (pieced lengthwise)

Cutting:
  • Cut fat quarters into 16-inch squares. See steps 1 and 2 for how to do this.
  • Cut light sashing fabric into 9 4-inch strips, across the width of fabric (WOF)
  • Cut the dark sashing fabric into 14 2-inch strips, across  WOF; save remaining fabric for binding (8   2-1/2-inch strips)
  • Cut medium or medium-dark cornerstone/outer border fabric into 8 4-1/2-inch strips, across WOF and set aside; cut 2 2-inch strips, sub-cut into 35 2-inch squares
Note:  If you pre-wash your fabrics, press them well after spraying with Mary Ellen's Best Press clear starch alternative or with fabric sizing.

Step 1:
Organize your fat quarters into 5 sets of 4 fabrics, being sure to vary the color, scale and value of the fabrics within each group. Label as groups 1 through 5.


Before cutting, make sure you have a sharp blade in your rotary cutter as you will be cutting through four layers of fabric. Layer the fat quarters from Group 1 fabrics on the cutting mat with right sides up and in random order. Align the left and bottom edges as closely as possible, with the selvage to the far right.


Cut a sliver of fabric from the left and bottom edges, ensuring that all  four fabrics were cut.


Cut the layer into a 16-inch square.  This is easiest if you have 16- or 24-inch square ruler. My largest square ruler is 15 inches, so I needed to combine it with a 24" x 6" ruler to cut my pile of fabrics.

Before moving or separating fabrics, sub-cut the squares as instructed in step 2.

Step 2:
Working with the first stack of four 16-inch squares, make vertical cuts: 4 inch strip, 2 inch strip, 4 inch strip, 2 inch strip, and 4 inch strip -- in that order working across the fabric pile.

 

After making the vertical cuts, rotate the strips 90 degrees and put the strips next to each other, making sure the fabric strips are aligned. Then make the next series of cuts in the same way: 4 inches, 2 inches, 4 inches, and 2 inches, leaving 4 inches.



The pieces that measure 2" x 4" are the A pieces.
The pieces that measure 2" x 2" are the B pieces.
The pieces that measure 4" x 4" are the C pieces.

 


Step 3:
This step will mix and match your fabrics such that you will have four blocks, each with 3 of the fabrics from the set. For each of the twelve A piles, bring the fabric from the bottom of the pile and place it on top of the pile. For each of the four B piles, take the top two fabrics and place them at the bottom of the pile (the top fabric will now be the third fabric in the pile and the fabric that was the second in the pile, will now be on the very bottom). Do not move any fabrics in the piles of piece C.


 
Step 4:
Repeat steps 1 through 4 for fat quarter Groups 2 through 5. You will now have fabric combinations for 20 blocks.

Step 5: Sew one block at a time.
Use the pieces in the top layer of Group 1 piles to make the first  block. Press all seams to piece A. Sew the block into rows and then sew the rows together. The block will now measure 12-1/2 inches square. Complete all 20 blocks. (Of course you can chain piece multiple blocks -- you'll just need to pay attention to which block you are working on because it's easy to mix up the fabrics.)

Step 6: Piece the sashing. You will need 9 light 4-inch strips and 6 dark/medium-dark 2-inch strips. I find it easiest to sew strips together and sub-cut  into the pieced sashing.

However, it's difficult to evenly press such long pieces. I suggest you trim the selvage edges off each of the strips and then cut each into four equal pieces. You'll now have 36 4-inch strips and 24 2-inch strips that are each approximately 10-1/2 inches long. Sew together a sashing set as follows: light 4" - dark 2" - light 4" - dark 2" - light 4". (Photo to come.)

Press all seam allowances to the light 4" pieces. Make 12 sets.

Sub-cut each set into 5 2-inch strips. (Photo to come.)

Sew a dark cornerstone to one end of 21 pieced sashing strips, pressing seam allowances to the light 4" piece;  label these sashing strips "A". Sew dark cornerstone pieces to both ends of 7 pieced sashing strips, pressing seam allowances to the light 4" pieces;labelthese sashing strips "B". Label the remaining 30 sashing strips (without cornerstones) "C".

Step 7: Sew the horizontal sashing rows.
Lay out sashing strips A and B horizontally, with three A pieces and then one B piece. Sew seven horizontal sashing rows.

Step 8: Assemble the rows of blocks to make the quilt center.
Lay out your blocks and vertical sashing strips. You will sew a C strip to the left side of each block, and sew a C strip to the right side of the last block in each row; then connect all of the blocks in the row.

Sew a sashing row from step 8 to the top of each finished row of blocks, and one to the bottom of the bottom row of blocks. Then sew the rows into the finished quilt center. The quilt center should now measure 56" x 69.5".

Step 9: Inner borders.
Use the eight 2"  x WOF strips of dark fabric to piece two 69.5"-long strips and two 59"-long strips. (Measure your quilt and make sure these lengths will work for you. Adjust as needed.) Join a 69.5" strip to the right and left sides of the quilt center. Press the seam allowances toward the border. Join a 59" strip to the top and bottom edges of the quilt center. Press the seam allowances toward the border. The quilt center with inner borders should now measure 59" x 72.5".

Step 10: Outer borders.
Use the eight 4-1/2" strips of medium or medium-dark fabric to piece  two 72.5"-long strips and two 67"-long strips. (Measure your quilt and make sure these lengths will work for you. Adjust as needed.) Join a 72.5" strip to the right and left sides of the quilt. Press seam allowances toward the border. Join a 67-inch strip to the top and bottom edges of the quilt. Press the seam allowances toward the border. The quilt center with outer borders should now measure 67" x 80.5".

Step 11: Quilt and bind using your preferred methods.

Here is a link to a pdf of these instructions.

I hope you enjoy this quilt.  Please leave a comment if you have any questions. If you make the quilt, please send a photo and I'll post it for others to see.



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